Do you know the wonderful website of Ralph Pink (www.ralphpink.com)?
This designer has created a blog where he proposes a gold mine at the disposal of seamstresses and corsetieres: he reproduced antique corset patterns available for download, made video tutorials (in English) for corset making, videos about the creation of patterns with CAD (Computer Aided Design), about creating print designs on Photoshop, about fashion illustration and many more things… Then he expanded his website by creating a collection of original and personal fashion patterns.
I particularly studied the corsetry tutorials: they permitted me to know interesting advices and tips some years ago to improve my knowledge about this art.
I tested its technique for corset pattern making thanks to these 2 videos:
http://www.ralphpink.com/corsetry-part-1/
http://www.ralphpink.com/corsetry-part-2/
So that I created this Edwardian underbust corset with straps that covers the whole back that I present you today.
This a has been a beautiful experience to make it because I have tried the construction of a personal corset pattern, its adjustment to my measurements, the creation of straps that I didn’t experienced before, the sewing of a bias on very narrow curves and the making of the back. That’s a lot of things for only one design, isn’t it?
I used my standard size mannequin. After the reproduction of the different parts of my corset as Ralph Pink shows in the videos thanks to designer tape, I transferred the pieces of the corset on Vilene (transparent bonding interlining), and then I reproduced them on paper. After that I created a toile (corset test) to see which modifications I have to bring to the corset pattern to fit my measurements.
Being near the measurements of the mannequin, I only had to add or remove a few millimeters to the seams on the hips.
I chose a chocolate and black baroque pattern taffetas edged with a black satin bias.
It is completely lined with black satin. These fabrics are of course reinforced to resist to body pressure.
Front busk closure to put it and remove it easily. A satin bow is placed at the top of it attached thanks to eyelets, for a romantic touch and also to avoid an openwork at the top of the busk.
Straps attach on the front of the corset thanks to black satin ribbons.
Modesty integrated at the back to cover the clothes or the skin sustained by boning. This one is much longer than on my regular underbust corsets since the lacing at the back is higher. I put eyelets on the top, in the middle and at the bottom of it to keep it in place.
The lacing is made from cotton for a traditional corset touch.
Silver nickel free eyelets.
Bonings are placed along all seams of the corset (2 at each seam), in front (busk sides) for a better support of the belly and at the back on each side of the eyelets.
Busk and eyelets closures are reinforced with plackets in order to strengthen them. I also like to use this technique for an aesthetic purpose because they remind the main fabric of the design inside the corsets and contrast with the lining.
For sewing and corset fans, I urge you to visit again and again the website of Ralph Pink: http://www.ralphpink.com/. I already told you! It’s a real gold mine at your disposal.
Its fashion patterns: http://ralphpink-patterns.com/
French translation available HERE.
