The 2018 European Heritage Days taking place from the 3th and to the 8th of April are this year on the theme of “Transmission of futures”. In this small piece of sentence, I understand that we are not only talking about transmitting an artistic, cultural and citizen education but also the mission to make discover crafts jobs in France and Europe to all the people, children and adults, amateurs of beautiful things, curious people fond of rare objects, advised aesthetes, rare objects collectors but also students in search for educational guidance in the field of craftsmanship, of handmade, of exception.
To celebrate these JEMA 2018 with you, I propose to make you discover each day a facet of my job which you know has several tentacles : corsetry, flower making and flower adornments, fashion accessories making (bags, hair accessories, fabric jewelry adorned with lace and gemstones). It’s also the occasion for me to share with you my life each day for 7 years as an art craftswoman and the new techniques which attract me, such as embroidery.
Day 1 – To shape the figures
I have made this small clay Edwardian sewing mannequin (I am not gifted at all for sculpture, I know) with very feminine curves to create a small made to measure Edwardian corset pattern made from black and gold silk.
Here is how a corset pattern is made to create you own patterns and your made to measure customers’ patterns.
You have to trace the lines of the various panels of the corset according to the body’s shape of the client to create the pattern with the molding technique (flat patterns can also be made). Then you have to make a fabric pattern called “toile” (a fitting pattern) to check that the corset fits well or to make some modifications, then report the final pattern on the main fabric. I generally 3 layers underbust corsets (under the bust) (fabric, coutil or any other thick fabric) and a lining permitting a good strength and a good support.
Then you have to sew the various panels together, the bone casings (made from metal in my corsets but in plastic for this small corset), then assemble the 3 layers, insert the eyelets, lacing and decorations.
Here is a slideshow summing these explanations to create my mannequin and its mini corset.